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Surtees, Robert Smith, 1803-1864

"Mr. Sponge's Sporting Tour"

Like many people, however, who are
not much in the habit of dinner-giving, he was anxious and fussy, too
intent upon making people comfortable to allow of their being so, and too
anxious to get victuals and drink down their throats to allow of their
enjoying either.
He not only produced a tremendous assortment of wines--Hock, Sauterne,
Champagne, Barsack, Burgundy, but descended into endless varieties of
sherries and Madeiras. These he pressed upon people, always insisting that
the last sample was the best.
In these hospitable exertions Puffington was ably assisted by Captain
Guano, who, being fond of wine, came in for a good quantity; first of all
by asking everyone to take wine with him, and then in return every one
asking him to do the same with them. The present absurd non-asking system
was not then in vogue. The great captain, noisy and talkative at all times,
began to be boisterous almost before the cloth was drawn.
Puffington was equally promiscuous with his after-dinner wines. He had all
sorts of clarets, and 'curious old ports.


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