The reception of the Embassy at Kabul was to all seeming perfectly
friendly, and even cordial. Every honour was paid to it, and the
assembled crowds, though preserving the impassive mien of Asiatics on
such occasions, respectfully saluted the British officers as they passed
along. It had been arranged that the members of the Embassy and escort
should take up their abode in quarters prepared for them in the Bala
Hissar, the celebrated fortress which is indelibly connected with the
name of Kabul, and which completely dominates the city. Here also were
the Amir's palace and the houses of many of his highest nobles.
For a month all went well. Cavignari paid frequent visits to the Amir,
and entered into long and friendly converse with him. The Amir's nobles
and officials paid frequent return visits of ceremony or friendship. The
officers of the Embassy rode out daily, morning and evening, to see the
country and surrounding places of interest, accompanied always, however,
by escorts of Afghan cavalry as well as of the Guides. To encourage
friendly intercourse, they used to practise tent-pegging and
lime-cutting, and invited the Afghan horsemen to join them. But, as
showing how curious are the workings of the Asiatic mind, it afterwards
transpired that this apparently unexceptional proceeding was looked on
by many with grave offence. The Afghan officers muttered that this was
mere braggadocio on the part of the sahibs; that the sport was only to
show how they would spit and cut down the sons of the Prophet, if they
had the chance! To fathom such depths of bigotry as this incident
reveals is one of the many difficulties which face Englishmen in Asia.
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