Great eruptions occur with circumstances
of indescribable terror and dignity; but Kilauea does not limit its
activity to these outbursts, but has exhibited its marvellous phenomena
through all known time in a lake or lakes on the southern part of the
crater three miles from this side.
"This lake--the Hale-mau-mau, or 'House of everlasting Fire', of
the Hawaiian mythology, the abode of the dreaded goddess Pele--is
approachable with safety, except during an eruption. The spectacle,
however, varies almost daily; and at times the level of the lava in the
pit within a pit is so low, and the suffocating gases are evolved in
such enormous quantities, that travellers are unable to see anything.
"At the time of our visit there had been no news from it for a week; and
as nothing was to be seen but a very faint bluish vapor hanging round
its margin, the prospect was not encouraging. After more than an hour
of very difficult climbing, we reached the lowest level of the crater,
pretty nearly a mile across, presenting from above the appearance of a
sea at rest; but on crossing it, we found it to be an expanse of waves
and convolutions of ashy-colored lava, with huge cracks filled up with
black iridescent rolls of lava only a few weeks old. Parts of it are
very rough and ridgy, jammed together like field-ice, or compacted by
rolls of lava, which may have swelled up from beneath; but the largest
part of the area presents the appearance of huge coiled hawsers, the
ropy formation of the lava rendering the illusion almost perfect.
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